MARSHALL COLUMBIA: FROM COLORADO PEAKS TO ICONIC BAGS
GATA met up with NYC-based designer Marshall Columbia to dive into the creative forces shaping his one-of-a-kind fashion brand. From the rugged landscapes of Colorado that inspired his design aesthetic, to the playful, plush beaded bags that launched his career during the pandemic, Marshall's journey is anything but conventional.
In this conversation, he opens up about the role of community in his work, the challenges of running an independent fashion label, and how staying true to his artistic vision has kept him grounded amid the chaos of the fashion world.
GATA: How did growing up in Colorado, influence your style? Did it blend with the local culture?
MARSHALL: I mean outside of a lot of my referencing coming from my childhood growing up in Colorado, nature is a big inspiration for me. Colorado is known for its mountains and wildlife and I think being surrounded by that growing up has definitely had a huge influence on my work. Flowers and natural textures and the spiritual energy from nature are all important to me when I design.
GATA: Do you think your costume design background gives your pieces a bit of drama compared to traditional ready-to-wear?
MARSHALL: I don’t think my costume design background aesthetically has a lot to do with my personal work, but I think coming from a non fashion industry job into starting my own brand has had a big impact on the way I work. I approached everything not knowing how it theoretically should run based on the industry, and I think that was actually a huge strength. Running a brand definitely has its ups and downs, but ultimately I was grateful I was able to just do things my way and figure it out for myself.
GATA: The piece that made you pop off was your plush beaded bag right? Why do you think they resonated so much with people? Share a depop story or something related to that time.
MARSHALL: I think people were just looking for something fresh and playful at the time. It coincided with covid lockdown and the biggest comment I had was people saying this is exactly the kind of playful pieces they need in their wardrobe to brighten up their life right now. Especially in New York, there is not a lot of color or humor in clothes and there was a group of people who really needed that. I was just making things I loved and that were fun to me and I was lucky enough to resonate with so many beautiful people.
GATA: What was your first thought when you saw Miley Cyrus rocking your design on stage?
MARSHALL: This was a secret I had to keep for a while. I knew this was filmed about 6 months before it was released and it really felt like I had to wait forever because this was the first celebrity who’s ever worn something of mine. She even loved the look so much she asked to buy it which never happens. Usually celebrities expect everything for free so it felt extra special she asked to pay for it. But even though I knew it was coming, it didn’t really settle that she wore it until it was released. I grew up watching her and seeing her evolution so this felt really special. And having her wear the beaded suit is still one of the highlights of my career.
GATA: Your brand really took off during the pandemic. Do you think the timing influenced your design choices, or maybe even your aesthetic?
MARSHALL: I mean I’ve had a pretty consistent design aesthetic I would say even through fashion school. I didn’t actually plan to start my brand when I did. The creation of my first collection really just came from the fact that I needed something to fill my time while I was stuck at home for so long. I had to work with mostly what I already had which was a fun challenge. I posted my small collection on Instagram and the response was quite a surprise. And that first collection is what brought the brand into working with SSENSE.
GATA: What was the biggest learning curve when shifting from making plush bags to creating a full capsule collection?
MARSHALL: I would say they both kind of started at the same time. But I needed to make money when the covid lockdown started because my unemployment checks took months to receive. So I did what I could by making and selling the purses on depop before showing the clothing capsule I had been working on at the same time. Handbags and clothing both have been equally important parts that elevate each other.
GATA: What role does community play in your brand, and how do you stay connected with your audience?
MARSHALL: My friends and the people I’m around in New York are a huge part of what I create and the energy I encapsulate. I’ve never done a runway show, but I’ve thrown a lot of parties and dress my friends up for them. This brand is for me and my friends to enjoy and that won’t ever change. Even on set, it’s about the energy around everything being fun and community oriented. I think some people take fashion way too seriously. To me it’s not that deep if it’s not fun.
GATA: If you could collaborate with any other young brand or designer right now, who would you choose?
MARSHALL: I’ve always wanted to collaborate with Tamagotchi. I actually already have so many ideas sketched if it was ever to happen. It’s so nostalgic to everyone and would be amazing to take something from my childhood and bring it into the brand.
GATA: What’s your ultimate goal for Marshall Columbia in the next few years?
MARSHALL: My biggest goal is to continue to have something that makes me happy and fulfills me spiritually. Running a brand is very challenging and can be a huge financial and mental burden. And this fashion industry machine can be easy to get lost in and to get burnt out if you’re not carful. So right not it’s about taking things slow, maybe slower than things have gone the past couple years, and making sure I continue to be fulfilled artistically and mentally. It was never my goal to become a huge legacy brand when I started this and I realize now that requires a mental and spiritual sacrifice I’m still not sure I’m willing to give.
GATA: What’s one thing about running an independent fashion label that people don’t expect?
MARSHALL: I’d say about 20 percent of the job is actually the fun part of designing and research and creating. The rest is the business side of things that can get a little mind numbing at times. There’s way more sacrifices involved than I would have thought, not only with time and financially, but also mentally. I don’t think there’s anyone in the world who will always be able to stay sane through the process of running a brand. Obviously it all comes down to how you can work through those issues and come back still loving what you are working towards. My biggest advice for anyone in this is to never hold too strongly to the idea of what you think you want or expect things will be like. I believe the universe always has its way of working things out, and maybe even in a better way than expected, but it took me a long time to learn that lesson, especially under the pressure of running a brand.
GATA: If you could design a costume for any fictional character, who would it be and why?
MARSHALL: I had such a fun time collaborating with Sanrio this year for Hello Kitty’s 50th birthday, but I still think I’d love to design an outfit for her. She’s always been one of my favorite icons and is a character of joy in every corner of the world. There’s nothing else like her.
INTERVIEW BY ANDY RIANO