In the opening of David Lynch’s film Blue Velvet, we are confronted with an idyllic image of the American suburb. Beautifully tended flowers sway lazily in the breeze, children skip merrily to school, and white picket fences charmingly frame the image of perfectly mowed lawns. Yet, as Lynch slowly pulls in his camera, a subterranean hell is revealed under the earth, filled with all manner of grotesque creatures and insects squirming amongst the filth. This alternate reality mirrors the evil that stirs within the town. An innocent exterior shielding a heart of darkness.

In many ways, how Lynch sees middle-class America can also be applied to Japan’s capital, Tokyo. While to the outside world, Japan looks to present itself as the land of Hello Kitty, and the birthplace of pocket-sized monsters, beneath its dark underbelly exists a fertile scene of underground subcultures. One need only look at the subversive photography of Nobuyoshi Araki, Romain Slocombe and Daido Moriyama to see a monochromatic landscape of sleaze, desire and decadence. These images of pulsating fetish clubs, and latent desires paint an alternative image to the family-friendly one offered up by the Japanese tourism board. It is a perverse wonderland for those fascinated by the underground way of life.

The Tokyo Damage Report was an online blog from the early 2000s that looked to capture the punk and counter-culture scene in the city. Written by Steven Schultz, the guide is a one man army of gonzo journalism that feels like a nostalgic throwback to the days of early Vice. From exposing the best live houses to breaking down the dos and don’ts of Shinjuku’s red-light district, Shultz's guide was the antithesis of gatekeeping.

The GATA team decided to dig up this antiquated manual to see if there was still some life left in some of these spots, and what we found was pleasantly surprising. In a city where a building lasting longer than 20 years is seen as some form of divine intervention, we discovered that many of these places have stood the test of time.

Below we have curated a few choice of 10 highlights from the guide, with the original text from the man himself, Steven Schultz. Be sure to check out the original guide [Link bellow] in all its glory, and who knows maybe one day you’ll be writing the next “Tokyo Damage Report”.

CLICK HERE if you wanna have access to the original guide.

SHINJUKU

“This is one of the best places to people-watch because of the diversity of the crowd. Usually, there are street musicians, ridiculous fashion, religious cultists, guys trying to pick up women, karaoke touts, and million shoppers, all going at once.

Best people-watching locations: outside of the east exit. Also, inside the station. Near the east exit ticket machines, is awesome too!

Best time: come after 10 pm and pretty much everyone in there is drunk and making an ass of themselves, making this a great place to just go and talk to strangers.” - Steven Schultz

ANTI KNOCK

4 Chome−3−15, Rei Flat Shinjuku, B1F, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0022

One of Tokyo’s oldest live venues. If jumping into a moshpit headfirst while having your teeth realigned by the boots of the other clientele is your kind of thing, then this is the place to be.

MOSAKUSHA

2 Chome-4-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 160-0022

“Tokyo's only anarchist bookstore. yes, the books are in Japanese. but, Jesus, who cares? It's Tokyo's only anarchist bookstore. well, one of two!”

KABUKICHO (The shady part of Shinjuku)

“This is the Las Vegas [of Tokyo]. All the gigolos and mafiosos and hoes and weirdos. Best at midnight. Hella drunks be staggering. Gigolos be pestering women. Female hookers here do not work the street. But you can spot them going to work because they all have these orange prom-looking up-dos. A squad of friendly trannies are usually in front of Koma Theatre.”

LOFT/PLUS ONE

1 Chome−14−7, Hayashi Bldg, B2, Shinjuku City,Tokyo, 160-0021

“Tokyo's most serious "maniac lecture bar." Every day they have a different lecture or demonstration of some totally underground, uncouth hobby.. For instance, medieval torture, scatology or 1960s animation. Unfortunately, since it is a "talk show bar" Even the fetish shows are mostly talk, so if you do not speak Japanese, I would not recommend it.”

KABUKICHO INFORMATION BOOTHS

“The rest of kabukicho is full of "information booths" which are like sexual travel agents. They just have stacks of promotional pamphlets, and some minion in a cheap suit who might be nice or mean.. 㻳o in these and get all the free shit you can. If that’s too intimidating, there are literally millions of free sex-store brochures on metal stands outside every convenience store. Most of these are full of hooker classified ads, with pictures of puppies and necklaces.

Don't ask me about prostitutes. That stuff is too normal and besides actual brothels don't allow gaijin customers. gaijin have this rude habit of objecting to the 200% overcharges that Japanese sex bars routinely put on after you thought you paid for everything. Here is the rule, dood: if there is a guy from Nigeria telling you about a sex bar, it is not one. The real sex bars have guys from Nigeria paid to keep your foreign ass out.”

TACHIBANA CLINIC

2F Hanazono Third Avenue, 1 Chome-1-8, Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 〒160-0021

“Tachibana shinryoushitsu (Tachibana’s diagnosis room) is one of the many tiny, expensive, weirdly themed bars in golden-gai. This one’s theme is ‘nurse fetish.’ While you drink out of beakers and eat popcorn out of surgical trays, you can look at medical charts on the wall, squeeze the blowup nurse hanging from the ceiling, or admire the mama-san’s giant dragon tattoo while you sip drinks with names like ‘barium enema’ and ‘speculum.’ Expect to pay about $35 per person, as there is a cover charge which you will not be told about.”

ENJISHAN (SHIN-ŌKUBO)

B1F, REMAX Shin-Okubo Building, 2-2-1 Hyakunincho, Shinjuku Ward, Tokyo, 〒169-0073

“For all you pet lovers out there look away now. “[Enjishan is] a Chinese restaurant where you can get dog. As in, woof woof dog… Point to the kanji in the menu that looks like this: 狗. It’s around $40.”

Disclaimer: The GATA team are huge dog lovers. If you visit this place, do so at your own peril. We will not take responsibility for the karma that may befall you.

MATCHING MOLE (KOENJI)

Eiwa Building Koenji, 3-45-1 Koenjiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo 166-0003

“It’s…a place for fans of Japan’s avant-garde, erotic and grotesque from the ‘70s until today. Plus, coffee and light meals. They have books and CDs for sale. The owner is really nice—when I was there, he sold some obscure delay pedal to some electronic music nerds that were planning this 8-bit-synth performance festival at the table next to me. The one otaku guy was so happy I thought he was going to cry. The owner speaks some English and would be more than happy to tell you about events and performances that could use your patronage.”

OTOME ROAD (IKEBUKURO)

“It’s basically Akihabara for women. There are five or six BL (Boy’s Love) manga shops, a few "butler cafes” and supposedly a drag-king cafe also (for nerd girls who are practising how to talk to real men but aren't there yet). All this in a 3-block radius. Oh, and BL is basically just slash fiction. I would recommend Otome Road not just for nerds, but for anyone who is interested in what Japanese girls are really like: watching the customers is the best part of going to the store! It's like going to some Hasidic neighbourhood where they have not seen a gentile in five years.”

KUJIRAYA (SHIBUYA)

2 Chome−6−15, Suzui Bld., 3F Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0043

An establishment that may not make the Japanese Tourism Board’s top recommendations for visitors of the country. Kojiraya is a restaurant that only serves one dish: whale.

JYOMYOIN TEMPLE (UENO)

2 Chome-6-4 Uenosakuragi, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0002

“This is a place to go for people who aren’t usually interested in traditional Japan or tea ceremony or any of that shit. Trust me, you’ll dig this. This is a temple dedicated to dead children. If the legend is correct, over 40,000. The little decaying statues of these kids are lined up obsessively over the entire temple grounds, on the floor, walls, Everywhere! Just staring at you with their blank, damaged faces. Shit is basically creepsville, is what I’m saying. You can’t miss it.”

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