THE ICONIC LOOKS OF CLAMP: REIMAGINING SHOJO MANGA

Hailed as "the queens'' of shōjo manga, CLAMP, the renowned all-female manga artist team has left an indelible mark on the shōjo manga genre. Throughout the years, CLAMP’s loveable heroines and bewitching realms have led readers through spellbinding storylines with artistry and style. Originating in 1984, a group of eleven high school girls united to create a dōjinshi (fan-fiction manga), laying the foundation for what would later be hailed as the infamous CLAMP. As their popularity soared, their unique vision led them to become one of the most influential and beloved manga artist teams in the industry.

Join the GATA team as we take a trip down memory lane into the captivating worlds crafted by CLAMP, exploring their iconic fashion looks and timeless stylistic choices that have solidified their position as legends in the realm of manga and anime.

Throughout their artistic journey, CLAMP experienced both growth and evolution, ultimately leading to the formation of the formidable four-woman team in 1993 that is left standing today. Nanase Okawa, the mastermind behind scripts and storyboards, works alongside Mokona Apapa, the brilliant lead character designer. Assisting with illustration and composition, the talented Satsuki Igarashi brings CLAMP's imaginative worlds to life, while Tsubaki Nekoi expertly serves as the group's editor.

A testament to their unwavering dedication, these artists are entirely self-taught, throughout the years growing their artistry to unimaginable heights. Amidst the various themes they explore, certain motifs remain constant across all CLAMP works - esotericism intertwined with elements like tarot, dreams, and spirits, the portrayal of identical twins as embodiments of good and evil, and themes of fate and destiny - are diligently woven throughout the fashion choices made by each character. This style of extravagant dress porn has undoubtedly become CLAMP's signature. The quartet’s artistry knows no bounds as they create some of the most mesmerizing and elaborate costumes, inspiring countless cosplayers to emulate their characters' iconic looks.

At the helm of their creative universe was RG Veda (1989-1996), the inaugural manga that showcased CLAMP's artistry to the world. Their early works quickly proved their commitment to fearlessly experiment with diverse themes and art styles, conjuring up captivating narratives that resonate with audiences of all ages. This principal work exudes a style deeply woven in mythology and celestial influences.

Pronounced Rigveda, the storyline features elements of Vedic mythology and Hinduism, the costume choices taking influence from ancient art and culture, rich in detail and visually powerful. As this epic revolves around gods and warriors, divine beings are adorned in elaborate and regal styles while mortals wear detailed traditional attire. In the realm of gore, bloodshed, and slain, accessories ranged from armor and weaponry to gold jewelry and gems. Carefully reflecting the time period and cultural influences, balanced with the fairytale themes of angst, destiny, and magic; CLAMP’s stylistic choices emphasize each character’s otherworldly presence.

One of CLAMP’s most iconic works is Tokyo Babylon (1990-1993), also known as Tokyo Babylon: A Save Tokyo City Story. It features the twin styles of Hokuto and Subaru Sumeragi as they fight to protect Tokyo, a Tokyo that is slightly exaggerated by seductive goth-fantastical energy. Hokuto’s powerful demeanor offsets the empathetic and sensitive Subaru; yin and yang. Known to wear lots of reds and exaggerated silhouettes, Hokuta can be attributed as somewhat of a fashion icon in the CLAMP universe. In addition to fighting off supernatural perils and dark forces of the occult, Hokuta occupies her time by designing the over-the-top outfits that both twin siblings wear in the series. The manga puts emphasis on the importance of individualism, as both characters grow into their individuality over time, coming into their bold styles and unique identities.

The gothic pre-apocalyptic tour de force that is X or X/1999 (1992-2003), is the successor of Tokyo Babylon’s dark fantasy. Deemed as CLAMP’s most ambitious title, X ups the stakes in every respect. Seductive and alternative fashions, malevolent destruction, strident weaponry, and a plot worthy of a devil’s playground make up this twisted series.

Tailoring to both Shōnen and Shōjo audiences, the supernatural allure of X elegantly blends witchy and vampiric elements. Exuding a heavy gothic punk style, the hardware detailing and strong color palette make each character’s closet quite coveted. Ohkawa has cited Go Nagai’s Devilman series as a stylistic and thematic influence for X, dipping into the curated dark forces that portray the sins of humanity. Pushing the envelope on manga released at the time, X stands strong as a wicked masterpiece, igniting a feverish desire in readers for all things dark and daring.

The intoxicating darkness of X quickly became one of CLAMP’s most acclaimed works in their early career, selling 12 million volumes. During the heights of X, CLAMP proved to the world that they could beat their own records and preconceived notions of their aesthetics. Cardcaptor Sakura (1998-2000) rose from X’s dark and stormy ashes to create the enchantingly innocent Sakura Kinomoto. Both series’, while seemingly different on the outside, amassed a larger-than-life following, launching into the world of anime, film, video games, and fan merchandise.

Sakura Kinomoto is different from how CLAMP characters were previously conceived, her soft artistic style tailoring to the more youthful side of Shōjo readers. The heroine’s memorable green eyes and peculiar hairstyle coupled with her sweet exterior make her instantly recognizable. Sakura, in contrast with most magical characters who transform into their alter-ego to fight, wears a different costume for each mission. According to the writers at CLAMP, “It’s pretty sad for a girl to wear the same outfit all the time”. She also counts on her feline companion, Kero-chan, to wear a darling matching costume to match. Her loveable personality is reflected in her wardrobe choices, decked out in ribbon, lace, and over-the-top cuteness. Since its inception, the success of the manga skyrocketed to unimaginable heights, becoming one of the most successful anime series of its time.

Brimming with a similar whimsy as Cardcaptor Sakura, emerged Chobits (2000-2002); paired with an equally complex storyline that has drawn in a large cult following and iconic roles that serve as the inspiration for endless character-related cosplay. Along with Cardcaptor Sakura, Chobits has come under fire for sexualizing innocent and childlike characters. As the humanoid computers portrayed in the series serve as a companion for people, they exude an energy that is obedient and inherently sexual, the series has been called out for providing fanservice.

Male gaze and sexual objectification aside, the striking aesthetics play into the traits of each character, shining light onto the narrative of artificial intelligence. Living in this futuristic world are Chii and her twin sister Freya, known for their signature persocom (PC) identifiers, and animal-like ears. Chii can be distinguished by her docile baby pink and heavenly white attire. Her doll-like style further concedes her status as cute and submissive. Freya, donned in all black, is a dip into the dark side; the evil counterpart to Chii’s goodness, the devil to her angel. Her style can be described as gothic lolita; sporting latex, lace collars, and buckle detailing.

Out of CLAMP’s later works, xxxHolic (2003-2011) stands above the rest, its aesthetic and costume choices distinguishing itself as a visual marvel. Presenting a flawless mix of Chinese, Japanese, and gothic fashions, dark imagery looms over the Ukiyo-e-inspired art style. This supernatural anime eases into the eccentric-looking characters that live there, playing with old-school gothic elements and odd-ball curiosities. The stylistic shining star of the series is the powerful and mysterious Yūko Ichihara, a witch characterized by her long flowing hair and her seductive and elaborate dressings. Adorned in intricate hair pieces, flamboyant dresses, and colorful flowing robes; Yūko enchants viewers with an otherworldly allure and tantalizing nature.

Their most recent ongoing project is a sequel to the iconic Cardcaptor Sakura. Released in 2016 and still running today, the CLAMP team shows no signs of receding their reign as the queens of Shōjo manga, riding off their past successes and evolving their repertoire to grow their already-sizable fanbase. The group's ability to build cult-level followings is a testament to their striking creative vision and unique character charisma. Ahead of their time, CLAMP works are consistently on the pulse of cutting-edge fashions before designers and animators take note. While many of their works remain unfinished, we are left satisfied with the timeless stylistic choices made by each piece that exists within the CLAMP universe. CLAMP’s influence extends far beyond the pages of manga, as many of their works are adapted into anime, leaving long-lasting subsequent franchises behind.

In May 2023, Uniqlo Japan unveiled a collaboration with CLAMP, the World of CLAMP line of UT graphic tees showcasing some of their most notable designs. The collection pays homage to classic works like Cardcaptor Sakura and Magic Knight Rayearth, while also celebrating the more recent releases of xxxHOLIC and Tsubasa: Reservoir Chronicle. This collaboration with Uniqlo further solidifies CLAMP’s status as a powerhouse in the manga industry. Their artistry and storytelling prowess continues to resonate with fans old and new, their artistic chokehold spanning across generations, proving that the CLAMP universe knows no bounds.

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Written by Jennie Bull

Culture, FashionJennie Bull7 September 2023CLAMP, shojomanga, animefashion